Tropical Fish
If we define a good beginner's fish as one that is easy to feed and care for, hardy,
able to live in a variety of water conditions, and attractive, then there are a
number of widely available fish which fit the bill nicely. Many of these are regularly
sold as beginner's fish. But watch out! Many of the fish sold as beginner's fish
really are not well suited to that role.
Many of the smaller schooling fish make ideal first fish. These include White Cloud
Mountain Minnows, the several commonly available species of Danios and Rasboras,
and most available species of Barbs. For those with a slightly larger tank, Rainbowfish
make a great schooling fish. Corydoras Catfish are ever popular schooling catfish.
While many beginners are tempted to get just one or two of each of several different
schooling fish, this should be resisted. Schooling fish do better if there are several
of their own species present for them to interact with. A minimum of six of each
of the midwater schooling fish is recommended, while four is the bare minimum for
Corys. In the long run, a school of a dozen fish showing their natural behavior
will be more pleasing than a mixed group of fishes unhappily forced to share the
same tank. (``Mom, why is that one fish hiding behind the heater and that other
one just hanging in the corner?'')
Of course, as mentioned in the introduction, the population needs to be built up
slowly, two or three fish at a time. The aquarist might, for instance, build up
a school of eight Rasboras of a certain species, then turn to building up a school
of six of a species of Cory Cats.
White Clouds, Danios, Rasboras, and Barbs are all Asian fish related to the Carp
and the Minnow. All of these fish belong to the family Cyprinidae. White Clouds,
Danios, Rasboras, and Barbs are small, active, hardy, and colorful.
- ``White Cloud Mountain Minnows'' - Tanichthys albonubes
-
Found in mountain streams in China, White Clouds can be kept in unheated tanks (down
to 55F). Some people advise against putting these fish in tropical tanks but I have
found that they do fine in heated aquaria as well, as long as the temperature is
not kept above the mid 70s. They can be fed any small food and they spawn often
but fry will not be seen unless the parents are removed to another tank. White Clouds
are brown with a red tail and a silvery white line down the side that shines in
the light. They get to be 1 1/2" long.
- Danios
-
Several species of Danios are often found in pet stores, including the Giant Danio
- Danio aequipinnatus, the Zebra Danio - Brachydanio rerio, the Leopard
Danio - Brachydanio frankei, and the Pearl Danio - Brachydanio albolineatus.
These fish are fast swimmers and are always in motion. Different patterns of blue
markings allows one to tell these fish apart. Most Danios stay under 2 1/2" long,
although Giant Danios can get up to 4".
- Rasboras
-
The most popular Rasbora is the Harlequin Rasbora - Rasbora heteromorpha.
A very similar looking species, Rasbora espei, is also available, as is the
Clown Rasbora - Rasbora kalochroma and the Scissor-Tail Rasbora - Rasbora
trilineata. Orange, brown, and red are usual colors for Rasboras, and their
stop-and-start swimming makes them interesting to watch as a school. Scissor-Tails
can get up to 6" long and Clown Rasboras up to 4" while Harlequins stay under 2"
long.
- Barbs
-
By far the most commonly seen and commonly cursed Barb is the Tiger Barb - Capoeta
tetrazona. It nips the fins of other fish if not kept in a large school
of its own species and because it is over-bred it is susceptible to diseases. Several
aquarium morphs are also available (such as the greenish ``Mossy Barb'' and an albino
variety) but these are even more sickly and often deformed.
Don't give up on the Barbs too fast though, as many are well suited as first fish,
especially for those with moderate sized tanks. Capoeta titteya, the Cherry
Barb, is a terrific little barb - up to 2" long and with a wonderful orange-red
color. Mid-sized barbs (up to about 4 1/2" long) include Clown Barbs - Barbodes everetti,
Rosy Barbs - Puntius conchonius, and Black Ruby Barbs - Puntius nigrofasciatus.
The artificial morphs (long-finned, albino, etc.) of the Rosy Barb should be avoided
though, as these tend to be sickly. Checker Barbs - Capoeta oligolepis and
Spanner or T-Barbs - Barbodes lateristriga are large, peaceful barbs (Spanner
Barbs up to 7" long). Unless you have a very large aquarium avoid Tinfoil Barbs
- Barbodes schwanefeldi. They grow to be over a foot long!
Note that many barbs don't school as ``nicely'' as do Danios or Rasboras, but most
should be kept in schools nonetheless. Also note that many authors may put all of
the above mentioned species in the genus Barbus.
Cory Cats are members of the family Callichthyidae, a family of armored catfish
from South America. Corys are small (generally 2 1/2" long or less), schooling fish
that are always searching the bottom of the tank for food. There are at least 140
species of catfish in the genus Corydoras. Some of these are quite delicate
and die quickly even in the hands of experts. The fragile ones, however, are rarely
seen in pet stores and are high priced when they can be found. The Corys you will
see for reasonable prices are hardy and can even survive in a tank with low oxygen
as they can swallow air from the surface and absorb it through their intestines.
Some Corys you may encounter are the Bronze Cory - C. aeneus, the Spotted
Cory - C. ambiacus, the Leopard Cory - C. julii, the Skunk Cory -
C. arcuatus, the Bandit Cory - C. metae, and the Panda Cory - C. panda.
Corys generally feed at the bottom of the tank and special sinking foods should
be fed. These include sinking pellets like Tabi-Min and frozen blood- worms. Care
should be taken to insure that all frozen foods are eaten quickly as they decay
rapidly and can foul the tank. Don't overfeed!
Rainbows are extremely colorful fishes native to Australia, New Guinea, and Madagascar.
Like the Cyprinids described above, Rainbows are schooling fish and should be kept
in groups of six or more. Larger, somewhat more expensive, and harder to find than
many of the schooling fishes already discussed, Rainbows are easily cared for, active,
and make good first fish for those who want to try something a little less common.
Look in your dealer's tanks for the Australian Rainbow - Melanotaenia splendida,
Boeseman's Rainbowfish - M. boesemani, Turquoise Rainbows - M. lacustris,
and the Celebes Rainbow - Telmatherina ladigesi.
The previous section talked about good fish for the complete novice aquarist. This
section will discuss good fish for beginning aquarists who have had some experience
or who are willing to do more careful research and shopping before buying their
fish.
Many of the fish recommended here are every bit as hardy, adaptable, and easy to
care for as those in the first section. However, in the first section I was able
to recommend whole groups of fish or at least say to watch out for only a species
or two in each group as bad choices. Here, however, the groups will be quite mixed
with many good choices and many poor ones. Also, some of the fish in this section
are hardy only if some special needs are cared for. If you wish to successfully
keep fish from these groups you need to be sure you know which species you are getting
and what their needs are.
Why bother? If you are a complete novice, perhaps you shouldn't. The great choices
from the ``First Fish'' list should allow you to get your feet wet (as it were)
with minimum risk. However, as you gain experience you may decide to give some of
these fish a try. Many are quite beautiful and/or have interesting behaviors and
some aquarists become so taken with them that they join specialist clubs just to
learn about and trade one group or another of these fish.
Loaches are long-bodied Asian fishes distantly related to the Cyprinids (Barbs,
Danios, etc.) described above. Like Cory Cats, loaches have a down-turned mouth
equipped with barbels - an adaptation for living and feeding at the bottom of ponds
and streams. They will scavenge the tank bottom eating the food missed by other
fishes, but you should take care to see that they get enough to eat. Special sinking
foods are a must.
Some loaches are sensitive to poor nitrogen cycle management, which is why they
are included here, rather than in the Good First Fish section. Once the tank is
established and the beginner seems to have gotten the hang of maintaining a tank,
however, loaches make great additions to most community fish populations.
The most commonly seen loaches are the Kuhli Loaches - Acanthophthalmus species.
These are long, ribbon-like fishes which grow to be 4" long. Brown with yellow stripes
and bands, Kuhli Loaches are shy and spend a lot of time buried in the gravel.
Another popular group of loaches are the members of the genus Botia. Clown Loaches
- B. macracantha, Yo-Yo Loaches - B. lohachata, Skunk Loaches - B.
horae, Blue Loaches - B. modesta, and Striated Loaches - B. striata
are all seen in the hobby. Some of these (notably Clown and Blue Loaches) can get
big, but they grow extremely slowly and can live in a small aquarium for several
years. Loaches will often be happier if kept with a few of their own species.
Weather Loaches - Misgurnus fossilis and Spotted Weather Loaches - Cobitis
taenia should be avoided. They are cold water species and have the unfortunate
habit of jumping out of aquaria, especially at the approach of a storm.
``Pleco'' (a shortening of the now-unused genus name Plecostomus) is the
common term used for suckermouth catfish of the family Loricariidae. As mentioned
below in the Bad First Fish section, common Plecos (Hypostomus species) are
often sold to beginners as algae cleaners. Unfortunately, these fish get too large
for the relatively small tanks of most beginners.
Some species of suckermouth catfish, however, do stay small enough for most beginners
to keep. The Clown Plecos of the genus Peckoltia have alternating transverse
bands of darker and lighter brown, tan, or yellow and generally stay under 4" long.
The Bristlenose or Bushynose Plecos of the genus Ancistrus possess, as their
common names imply, numerous projections from the area between their eyes and mouth.
Within each species the bristles are larger on the male, especially near breeding.
In fact, Bristlenose Plecos are among the few Loricariids to be successfully spawned
in the home aquarium.
Otocinclus Cats, often just called Otos, are the smallest Loricariids and will clean
algae from live plants without hurting any but the most delicate of them. Otos sometimes
die shortly after purchase for no apparent reason, but if they make it past this
critical time they make very good community tank residents.
While the various suckermouth catfish will indeed help to keep the aquarium free
from many common algae types, the beginner should not make the mistake of thinking of these fish as simply algae eaters or scavengers. They should be given foods intended
just for them, such as zucchini which can be blanched or weighted down to sink it
to the Pleco's level. Some fish food manufacturers have recently realized that there
is a market for specialized Pleco foods and now sell products such as sinking algae
wafers which fit this bill nicely. These foods should be fed in the evening when
the light reaching the tank is low, as most Plecos are more active at this time
and most other fish which might compete for the food are less active. Pieces of
(uncoated) driftwood in the tank are also important for many Pleco species, which
rasp at the wood and ingest the scrapings. By the same token, Plecos should *not*
be kept in wooden tanks, or even acrylic ones for that matter, as they may chew
into the tank material damaging it and/or themselves (by ingesting toxins or undigestible
matter).
Pleco species can be quarrelsome amongst themselves and may be picked on by other
fish due to their generally slow-moving nature. Provide a hiding cave for each Pleco
and give them territories proportional to their size (e.g. 10 gallons for a 3" fish.)
Like many of the fish in the first section, Tetras are schooling fish and should
be kept in groups of six or more of the same species. Tetras are native to Central
and South America and Africa. In some regions of South America the water is quite
soft (very little rock is dissolved in it) and acidic. (Another way of saying ``acidic''
is to say that it has a low pH - one below 7, which is considered ``neutral''. A
strong acid has a very low pH. Liquids above pH 7 are said to be ``basic''.)
Unless you know that your tank water is also soft and acidic, the Tetras that need
that water should be avoided. Before you buy a Tetra that you are not sure about,
look it up in your book. If it says that it needs a pH below 6.5 you should probably
avoid it. While many beginning aquarists are tempted to simply adjust the pH of
their water by buying little containers of chemicals in the pet store, do not give
in to this temptation! Water chemistry is very complex and you can easily kill all
your fish by trying it.
On the other hand, if your tap water is naturally soft and achieves a consistent
acidic pH, there is no reason that you can't try your hand at some of these fish.
Two very popular Tetras which need soft, acidic water are the Neon Tetra - Paracheirodon
innesi and the Cardinal Tetra - Cheirodon axelrodi. These are quite
attractive red and blue fish. The red line on the Cardinal runs from the head on
back, while in the Neon it starts only in the belly region. But their attractiveness
is their only advantage. Besides its water requirements the Neon has the added drawback
that almost all of them are bred in the Far East in huge numbers with no regard
to quality. Further, the raising ponds for the young fish are filled with medicines.
The medicines keep diseases in check but as soon as the fish are shipped they begin
to get sick. They die in huge numbers in the stores and in buyer's home tanks. Probably
less than 1 in 10 Neons lives for more than one month after being removed from the
pond it was raised in. Further, those two or three tiny neons for a dollar at the
local store can easily introduce a disease that kills all the fish in your tank.
Cardinals will have a greater chance of not dying immediately after purchase but
even they will probably not live long in your home tank. They are wild caught in
Brazil as adults so they may have lived most of their naturally short life span
before you buy them.
Other Tetras which need acidic water include the Blue Neon Tetra - Hyphessobrycon
simulans, the Flag Tetra - H. heterorhabdus, H. metae, the
Loreto Tetra - H. loretoensis, the Black Phantom Tetra - Megalamphodus megalopterus,
and the Red Phantom Tetra - M. sweglesi.
So what about those aquarists without acid water? There are plenty of hardy Tetras
out there for beginners without special water. These include the distinctive Black
or Black Skirt Tetra - Gymnocorymbus ternetzi, the brightly colored Glow
Light Tetra - Hemigrammus erythrozonus, the radiant orange Jewel Tetra -
Hyphessobrycon callistus, the Flame Tetra - H. flammeus, and the red-tailed
Pristella - Pristella maxillaris, all of which grow to less than two inches
long. Slightly larger Tetras include the Penguin Tetra - Thayeria obliqua
and the closely related Hockey-stick Tetra - Th. boehlkei, both of which
are easily recognized by the black lines originating in the lower half of their
caudal (tail) fins and running forward, the shiny Diamond Tetra - Moenkhausia pittieri,
and the beautiful, trident-tailed Emperor Tetra - N. palmeri. Finally, the
only African Tetra frequently seen, the Congo Tetra - Phenacogrammus interruptus
is a gorgeous fish which grows up to four inches long.
Cichlids, members of the family Cichlidae, come from Central and South America and
Africa, with a few species found in Madagascar, the Middle East and into Asia. Cichlids
are quite unlike any of the fish discussed so far. They are related to and resemble
the Perch and Sunfish of US waters. For aquarists, cichlids pose four major problems:
(1) Some need special water conditions, (2) some have specialized diets, (3) some
get quite large (the largest up to 3' long), and (4) all are territorial.
Again, why bother? Because for those willing to take the challenge, the rewards
can be great. If any fish can be said to be intelligent, Cichlids can. They display
this in their everyday activities as well as in their specialized mating, breeding,
and fry-raising activities. The fish mentioned in the previous sections all lay
eggs and then ignore or even eat them! Cichlids, on the other hand, care for their
eggs and young. It is said that one of the most rewarding sights an aquarist can
see is parental Cichlids herding their fry around the tank and protecting them from
all dangers. And, even if your Cichlids never breed, they will be more responsive
to you than perhaps any other fish. Cichlids can be much more ``pet-like'' than
you might
think a fish could be.
If you do decide to take the Cichlid challenge, choosing your Cichlids can be difficult.
Some can be added to your community tank and will do fine with the schooling fish
talked about above. These include Curviceps - Aequidens (really Laetacara)
curviceps, Dorsigers - Aequidens (again, really Laetacara)
dorsiger, and the less frequently seen Nannacara anomala, all from
South America, and Thomas' Dwarf Cichlid - Anomalochromis thomasi from western
Africa. Unlike the monster Cichlids, these fish stay small (3 1/2'' is a good sized
adult) and are relatively peaceful. Two or three may be placed in a 10 gallon tank
and they should still all find places to live if there are rocks and other decorations
in the tank.
Other Dwarf Cichlids you may see are the Ram - Papiliochromis (some books
use Microgeophagus or Apistogramma) ramirezi, Apistos - Apistogramma
species, and the Checkerboard Cichlid - Dicrossus filamentosus (referred
to as Crenicara filamentosa in the books). These fish vary in their difficulty
for keeping as aquarium fish, but all of them should be avoided by beginners.
Keyhole Cichlids - Aequidens (really Cleithracara) maronii,
Festivums - Cichlasoma (really Mesonauta) festivus, and Angelfish
- Pterophyllum scalare can be good fish for the relative novice, but only
if healthy specimens can be found and this is often not easy. For this reason, small
Keyholes and Festivums should not be purchased. Adults of these two species are
generally better choices; still, one should look the fish over carefully and not
buy them until they have been in the store tanks for at least a week. Similarly,
for the very popular Angelfish, one needs to be very careful when buying them. Before
you buy, ask the salesperson to tell you where the store gets its Angels. If the
salesperson doesn't know, won't tell you, or says that they come from ``the wholesaler''
(and who knows where before that?) don't buy them. If you are told that they come
from a local breeder then you have at least a chance of getting healthy fish. Also,
Angels should be kept in tanks both taller and longer than a 10 gallon aquarium.
Keyholes, Festivums, and Angels are all shy fish and should be provided with cover
-- preferably a planted tank.
Discus, like Angels, need tanks higher and longer than 10 gallon tanks. Their specialized
needs do not stop there, however, and beginners should shy away from these difficult
and demanding fish.
At the other end of the difficultly scale, a very good choice, especially for those
with a 20 gallon or larger aquarium, is the ``Jurupari'' - Satanoperca leucosticta
(formerly referred to in the hobby as Geophagus jurupari). It does get large
(up to a foot), but it grows very slowly and may still be less than six inches long
when several years old. It is a very peaceful Cichlid which will help to clean your
tank by sifting through the gravel for uneaten food. A similar fish, Geophagus surinamensis,
is also a good choice.
Kribs or ``Kribensis'' - Pelvicachromis pulcher are a widely seen West African
Cichlid that will do well with the larger schooling fish and should be kept in a
twenty gallon or larger tank. Male Kribs grow to be 4" long and females stay a bit
smaller.
Most of the remaining cichlids which are commonly available are too aggressive and/or
grow too large for the beginning aquarist to effectively deal with. This includes
the very popular Oscar - Astronotus ocellatus which grows rapidly to over
a foot, is opportunistically piscivorous, and is a very messy species. If the aquarist
is truly interested in keeping more cichlids than those recommended above, she or
he should be prepared to set up special, separate (and probably larger) tanks for
these fish and to read more extensively on cichlids before buying them.
Anabantids are another group of fishes that are quite different from those already
discussed. Distantly related to Cichlids and Perch, Anabantids are found in Africa
and Asia. Members of the families Anabantidae, Belontiidae, Helostomatidae, and
Osphronemidae, Anabantids are also referred to as the ``labyrinth fishes''. This
is due to a special breathing organ referred to as the labyrinth organ which is
essentially a maze of tunnels near the fish's gills. Labyrinth fish gulp air at
the surface of the water and absorb it through the labyrinth organ, allowing them
to live in water with too little oxygen to support fish which only breath through
their gills. Some Anabantids can survive out of water for several hours breathing
only through their labyrinths, as long as they stay moist. Anabas testudineus,
known as the Climbing Perch, is said to be able to climb trees and to live out of
water for up to two days.
As well as giving aquarists some additional choices for community-tank fish, Anabantids
offer some unique options to fish keepers as well as presenting a few problems.
Because some Anabantids are able to withstand cooler temperatures, and because of
their ability to survive in water with very low oxygen, these fishes can be kept
in tanks or bowls without heaters or filtration. On the other hand, some Anabantids
(particularly males of some species) are very territorial and some grow quite large.
Breeding Anabantids can be quite rewarding. Some species build nests out of bubbles
into which they place their eggs while others, like some Cichlids, are mouthbrooders.
The most commonly seen Anabantid is probably the Betta or Siamese Fighting Fish
(which is generally said to be Betta splendens but is probably a crossbreed).
Artificial color varieties with red, blue, green, purple, and many other colors
in various combinations are widely available. Males are bred to have very large
fins and both sexes are seen with double tails. Siamese Fighting Fish generally
make poor choices for the community tank for two reasons. First, as their name would
imply, they are very territorial. The aggression is greatest between two males,
but can be directed towards any fish that looks to the Betta too much like another
Betta. Second, their long fins make easy targets for many fish such as Barbs. Siamese
Fighting Fish can be kept alone in bowls (the larger the better) or tanks without
filtration as long as frequent partial water changes are done. They do need warm
temperatures, however, and are sensitive to temperature changes, so a constant heat
supply is needed if the room is less than about 75F. Also, due to poor breeding,
many Siamese Fighting Fish are not very healthy. A 3" male would be a large adult;
females stay smaller.
A better choice for keeping alone in a bowl or small tank is the Paradise Fish -
Macropodus opercularis. These are much hardier fish than the Fighters and
can withstand temperatures down to 60F. They may jump, however, so the tank should
be covered to be safe. Also, like Siamese Fighting Fish, male Paradise Fish can
be extremely territorial towards one another. Paradise Fish may get up to 4" long.
Another very commonly seen Anabantid is the Blue or Three-Spot Gourami - Trichogaster
trichopterus. Gold, Silver, and Cosby Gouramies are also widely available
and are simply artificial color varieties of the Blue Gourami. Blue Gouramies can
get up to 6" long. They are not as aggressive as Fighters or Paradise Fish, but
more than one in a small tank may lead to constant (if not overly deadly) chasing.
They will do well in a tank with larger schooling fishes. Similar, though slightly
smaller species include the Banded or Giant Gourami - Colisa fasciata (which
is only a giant compared to the similarly colored Dwarf Gourami described below),
the Thick-lipped Gourami - Colisa labiosa and the somewhat less aggressive
Pearl Gourami - Trichogaster leeri and Moonlight Gourami - T. microlepis.
The Kissing Gourami - Helostoma temmincki grows larger (up to 12") but makes
a good fish for beginners with larger tanks. It is peaceful, though males will contest
with one another by pressing their lips together and pushing - the so-called ``kissing''
from which the common name derives. Most Kissing Gouramies seen will be of the Pink
variety.
Small Gouramies, only growing to 2" or so in length, are also available. These include
the Dwarf Gourami - Colisa lalia, the Honey Gourami - C. chuna, and
the Sunset Dwarf Gourami (probably a cross between C. lalia and C. chuna).
In theory, these would all be good fish for the community aquarium. In practice,
these fish are often the victims of poor breeding practices in the Far East (like
so many others described before) and many are even treated with hormones before
they are shipped to make them appear brighter in the store tanks. A good rule of
thumb is, ``If it looks too good to be true, it probably is.''
Although harder to find, Anabantids which have had less human interference with
their reproduction are generally better choices. Look for the Mouthbrooding Betta
- Betta pugnax, the Licorice Gourami - Parosphromenus deissneri, the
Spike-Tailed Paradise Fish - Pseudosphromenus cupanus, the Croaking Gourami
- Trichopsis vittatus, and the Dwarf Croaking Gourami - T. pumilus,
which range in size from 1" to 4". Do not buy Chocolate Gouramies - Sphaerichthys
osphromenoides which are quite delicate, or the true Giant Gouramies - Osphronemus
spp. which grow quickly to well over two feet long.
The family Poeciliidae contains Guppies, Mollies, Platies, and many other fishes.
While these fish are often thought of as beginners' fish they have been intentionally
left off the list until now in order to make a point. The reasons these fish are
often sold to beginners are that they are cheap, brightly colored, and have a general
reputation among non-aquarists as easy fish. Notably absent from this list is any
real suitability for keeping by beginners. For one thing, many livebearers need
high level of salt in their water to be healthy - making them incompatible with
many other aquarium fish. Many common livebearers also are overbred, resulting in
fish not nearly as healthy as those kept by aquarists of previous generations (or
by the authors of most books). Some are not even able to reproduce without human
intervention. Finally, due to their low market price, they are generally not well
cared for and may carry diseases.
Poeciliids, as they are also called, come from the Americas, primarily Central America.
They are called ``livebearers'' (as opposed to ``egg-layers'', as all the previously
discussed fish have been) because the eggs are fertilized within the female and
the fry do not appear until the eggs have hatched. There are also livebearers from
other families in which the details of reproduction vary.
The well-known Guppy can be found in a number of colors and with as many as 12 different
artificial tail varieties. Also available is the closest thing that you may find
to the wild Guppy - Poecilia reticulata: ``feeder Guppies'' which are not
bred for color. The fancy strains tend to be fragile while common Guppies often
carry diseases. Guppies should be kept in water with at least one teaspoon of salt
per five gallons of water.
Common Mollies are the Black Molly (which was derived from the Marled Molly - Poecilia
sphenops) and the Sail-Fin Molly - Poecilia velifera (of which there
are also several color varieties available). Black Mollies need at least one teaspoon
of salt per five gallons of water to keep them healthy and prevent the outbreak
of ``ich'' (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis, a parasite commonly seen in aquaria)
while Sail-Fin Mollies need at least three times this amount. Sail-Fins grow to
6" while Black Mollies stay less than 3".
Closely related, Swordtails - Xiphophorus helleri and Platies - Xiphophorus
maculatus are also popular fish. A number of color and finnage varieties
are available of each with some of the Platies also referred to as ``Moons''. These
fish need at least a teaspoon of salt per 5 gallons of water to be healthy. Some
varieties are susceptible to various maladies (Tuxedo Swords often get tumors, for
instance) and as with so many other fish the naturally colored fish are probably
your best bets. ``Green Swords'' (which are really multi-colored) are naturally
colored X. helleri, but unfortunately wild morphs of Platies are not often
seen. The Variegated Platy - Xiphophorus variatus is sometimes seen, however,
and fills this role nicely.
We have already discussed several poor choice for beginners' fish alongside their
more desirable cousins. Here are more fishes that are seen in the stores that beginners
should be warned about. Many of these fish make good fish for advanced hobbyists
while others never make good aquarium fish. Some are even suitable for a well-informed
beginner; you just need to know what you are getting yourself into before you buy
the fishes on impulse and drop them into your community tank.
Goldfish are one of the most common fish sold to beginners, but are particularly
poorly suited to this role. The common Goldfish sold as feeders are generally full
of diseases and parasites which may kill them and other fish they are housed with.
Fancy varieties, which have been selectively bred for centuries to achieve their
unnatural appearances, are subject to a host of problems associated with their abnormalities.
All Goldfish are cold water fish which do not do well in the lower oxygen levels found in tropical aquaria, and therefore should not be housed with tropical species.
Piranhas are among the most abused of all aquarium fish. They are often purchased
in order to watch their legendary feeding habits. As mentioned above, feeder fish
often bring diseases and parasites with them and these can infect Piranhas. A regular
diet of feeder fish can also be quite expensive.
Piranhas are schooling fish and are generally shy and stressed when kept as single
specimens. Unfortunately, they also get big (many species well over a foot long),
so most beginning aquarists don't have room to house more than a single Piranha.
If enough tank space is available to keep several Piranhas together, they must be
kept well fed or they will turn on each other, killing and cannibalizing one fish
after another.
There are several families of fish from South America, Africa, and Asia, referred
to as Knife Fishes. Many species of Knives get large, some over 3' long although
some of the less attractive species stay as small as 8". All of them are nocturnal
predators, a fact that many a beginner could have used before all of his or her
small fish ``mysteriously'' disappeared a few at a time.
Somewhat related to Tetras, Hatchets (family Gasteropelecidae) and Pencils (genus
Nannostomus) are Characins from South America. Many of them need soft and
acid water and all of them are delicate. Hatchets have the added disadvantage that
they tend to launch themselves out of the aquarium to an untimely death.
More fragile fish include Elephant Noses - Gnathonemus petersi and Baby Whales
- Petrocephalus bovei. African fishes from the family Mormyridae, these are
night feeders and are hard to provide for in the aquarium.
Chinese Algae Eaters - Gyrinocheilus aymonieri are often introduced into
the aquarium to do what their common (sales) name implies - eat algae. They are
usually seen at a small size and many die within a short time of purchase. If they
live, however, they get big (up to a foot long) and tend to prefer to rasp at the
sides of slow moving fish (making them susceptible to infections) to eating algae.
Not a shark at all but a Cyprinid (related to the Carp), Bala Sharks - Balantiocheilus
melanopterus quickly outgrow most home aquaria. They get to be over one
foot long.
Unrelated to the Bala Shark or to true sharks, the Iridescent Shark - Pangasius sutchi
is a catfish. It grows to over 3' and tends to injure its nose against the aquarium
glass.
Another catfish to avoid is the Glass Catfish - Kryptopterus bicirrhis. While
it stays small enough to be an aquarium fish (up to 6"), it is very delicate and
should not be purchased by beginners.
The suckermouth catfish of the genus Hypostomus are often sold in the stores
as algae cleaners. Most of these species get in excess of 12". Some of the slender
suckermouth catfish, such as the Whiptail - Dasyloricaria filamentosa and
the Farlowella - Farlowella gracilis, are quite delicate species.
Catfish don't have long whiskers for looks. They are there to help them hunt for
their food - other fish! In addition to eating all fish of less than half their
size in the tank, many of the piscivorous (fish-eating) Cats will outgrow most tanks.
One common species of long-whiskered catfish, the Pictus Cat - Pimelodus pictus
grows to 10" while the Channel Cat (a pink form is often seen) grows over 2 feet
long. Shovelnose Cats are usually only seen at six inches or greater, so the beginner
does have some warning with these. Still, one might not expect them to get 2 or
3' long.
Red-Tailed Catfish - Phractocephalus hemiliopterus are particularly large-growing
predatory catfish. A dark body with a horizontal white stripe and red tail gives
them an attractive appearance at a small size that has unfortunately made them a
popular aquarium fish with those who fail to appreciate the enormity of adults.
Adults may grow to well over 4' in length and have mouths that more than match their
lengths. As such, they are more than many public aquaria can house, not to mention
private aquarists.
Spiny Eels (family Mastacembelidae) are aggressive fish, some of which grow quite
large (over 3'). Some do stay small (less than 4" for one species), but all are
likely to have internal parasites.
Painted Glassfish are Glassfish - Chanda ranga which have been ``painted''
with chemical dyes. This procedure adds a temporary bit of unnatural color (which
disappears with time) and stresses the fish, causing them to be prone to diseases
and parasites. This fish needs at least 1 teaspoon of salt per gallon of aquarium
water.
While Painted Glassfish were for a long time the only fish commonly seen that had
been ``colorized'' by unscrupulous marketers, the last few years have seen several
other fishes subjected to this abuse. One of these is the White Skirt Tetra (an
albino version of the Black Skirt Tetra - Gymnocorymbus ternetzi) which are
sold as Blueberry Tetras, Strawberry Tetras, Rainbow Tetras, etc. depending on the
dyes used to color the individuals. Similarly, Blueberry and Strawberry Loaches
have also been seen. If you are unsure if a fish has been dyed, ask.
I have already mentioned some fish, such as Mollies and Glassfish, which come from
brackish waters - I simply have not called it that before. Brackish water is intermediate
between the fresh water of most rivers and lakes and the salt water of the Oceans.
Brackish water is found in gulfs, deltas, and lagoons, as well as a some lakes and
rivers. Because brackish water fish need so much salt in their water they are not
compatible with most aquarium fish. Further, brackish water fish generally need
more room per fish to stay healthy than freshwater fish. Some commonly seen brackish
water fish include Monos - Monodactylus species, Archers - Toxotes
species, Scats - Scatophagus species, and many species of Puffers (family
Tetraodontidae).
If brackish water fish are to be avoided by beginners, then beginners should stay
well away from salt water fish. Their bright colors are attractive, but they are
generally much more difficult for beginners to keep alive than are fresh water fish.
Conclusion
There are thousands of species of aquarium-suitable fish from a host of families
that are not covered above; this article is far from comprehensive. Killifish (fish
of the family Cyprinodontidae) for example, are widely kept by many advanced hobbyists,
but not often by beginners. This is not because they are all unsuitable as
beginner's fish. In fact, some of them would make very good first or second fish.
They are simply not widely available in pet stores.
For choices of good beginners' fish beyond those listed here, and for expanding
once one has moved beyond the beginner level, local aquarium clubs and friends who
are aquarists can be very good sources of information. So can many of the available
fishkeeping books and magazines. At every level of experience, the aquarist will
find that good information is well worth the time and/or money it takes to get it.
